DENTAL
Normal hedgehog teeth are white and their gums should be a healthy medium to dark pink in colour.
Using hard food as a major portion of the diet is the best prevention, but as the pet ages gum and tooth disease may still develop.
Signs of dental disease include a decreased or complete loss of appetite, drooling, foul breath, red/swollen gums, tooth discolouration and pawning at the mouth. These signs indicate a serious problem and should seek medical attention. Your veterinarian may need to take an x-ray to see if there are any root infections, prior to instituting treatment.
Regular tooth loss occurs between 2-6 years of age. The most important thing becomes ensuring that your hedgie can still get adequate nutrition. They will be unable to chew hard foods, and will require a softer diet. Many owners will presoak dry food, while others will switch to a soft food formula.
View of healthy teeth
Normal hedgehog teeth are white and their gums should be a healthy medium to dark pink in colour.
Using hard food as a major portion of the diet is the best prevention, but as the pet ages gum and tooth disease may still develop.
Signs of dental disease include a decreased or complete loss of appetite, drooling, foul breath, red/swollen gums, tooth discolouration and pawning at the mouth. These signs indicate a serious problem and should seek medical attention. Your veterinarian may need to take an x-ray to see if there are any root infections, prior to instituting treatment.
Regular tooth loss occurs between 2-6 years of age. The most important thing becomes ensuring that your hedgie can still get adequate nutrition. They will be unable to chew hard foods, and will require a softer diet. Many owners will presoak dry food, while others will switch to a soft food formula.
View of healthy teeth
EARS
Hedgehog ears should be smooth and rounded around the edges. Here is some pictures of healthy ears.
Hedgehog ears should be smooth and rounded around the edges. Here is some pictures of healthy ears.
Many hedgehogs get tattered ears.
In almost every case, what you are seeing is a waxy buildup on the edges of the ears, rather than the ear itself being ragged. That means that cleaning it off, and solving the problem, will restore your little friend to his normal healthy round ears. The other good news is that it doesn't appear to adversely bother hedgehogs who have it.
A number of reasons can cause tattered ears
Reason #1: If two males were housed together, many times they will fight, and bite on eachothers ears. If you purchased your hedgehog from a pet store, many times they will put 2 males together not knowing they are dominant creatures. Once seperated the ears will heal. If the ears were badly bitten, some scars may occur. Putting a little cocoa butter or olive oil on the ears usually helps as well.
Reason #2: Dry/cold weather and/or some minor dietary problem (too little/much of something). Adding vitamins or giving your hedgehog cod liver oil helps in this situation.
Reason #3: Mites, Ringworm, Fungus, etc. Tattered ears can be a sign of any of these conditions. Usually other sypmtoms occur as well. (see quill loss & mites page). Fungus left untreated will eat away the ears. This fungus is a common wood fungus which usually comes from wood products (bedding,hut,newspaper,etc.)
Ivomec (from your vet) as well as anti fungal creams (cremes for athletes foot etc) seems to work the best as far as treatment on the ears. (Mites should be treated with Revolution). You can also use olive oil and rub down the tip of the ears daily until the ears smooth out and tattered parts wipe off.
Below are pictures of tattered ears in hedgehogs.
In almost every case, what you are seeing is a waxy buildup on the edges of the ears, rather than the ear itself being ragged. That means that cleaning it off, and solving the problem, will restore your little friend to his normal healthy round ears. The other good news is that it doesn't appear to adversely bother hedgehogs who have it.
A number of reasons can cause tattered ears
Reason #1: If two males were housed together, many times they will fight, and bite on eachothers ears. If you purchased your hedgehog from a pet store, many times they will put 2 males together not knowing they are dominant creatures. Once seperated the ears will heal. If the ears were badly bitten, some scars may occur. Putting a little cocoa butter or olive oil on the ears usually helps as well.
Reason #2: Dry/cold weather and/or some minor dietary problem (too little/much of something). Adding vitamins or giving your hedgehog cod liver oil helps in this situation.
Reason #3: Mites, Ringworm, Fungus, etc. Tattered ears can be a sign of any of these conditions. Usually other sypmtoms occur as well. (see quill loss & mites page). Fungus left untreated will eat away the ears. This fungus is a common wood fungus which usually comes from wood products (bedding,hut,newspaper,etc.)
Ivomec (from your vet) as well as anti fungal creams (cremes for athletes foot etc) seems to work the best as far as treatment on the ears. (Mites should be treated with Revolution). You can also use olive oil and rub down the tip of the ears daily until the ears smooth out and tattered parts wipe off.
Below are pictures of tattered ears in hedgehogs.
EYES
Hedgehogs have small beady eyes with poor eyesight, however their eyesight is equipped for night time vision. Healthy eyes should be clear and bright as shown below.
Hedgehogs have small beady eyes with poor eyesight, however their eyesight is equipped for night time vision. Healthy eyes should be clear and bright as shown below.
Eye Injuries: All encountered eye injuries seem to result from young hedgehogs walking and piling on top of each other in the nest box and from the rooting behavior of most hedgehogs as they ransack their cages. Hedgehogs do not seem to rely to any significant extent on eyesight. A hedgehog will still function and do well with the loss of vision or eye.
Proptosed eye: It looks like not only is his eye pushing out, but the eyelids as well. Their eyes can proptose from a tumour, infection,injury or for no reason we can find. Because hedgehogs have shallow eye sockets and more protruding eyes, they are at more at risk of this happening. If it is clouding over, the hedgie may loose or have already lost the eyesight. Most of the time they will loose the eye when this happens but sometimes if the eye is sewn shut until it heals, the eye can be saved. It depends on the vet whether they will remove the eye and stitch it shut or leave it and put hedgie on pain meds and antibiotics. If they don't remove it, the eye will dry up and shrivel up and hedgie will dig it out leaving just a socket.
Below are examples of proptosed eye below
Proptosed eye: It looks like not only is his eye pushing out, but the eyelids as well. Their eyes can proptose from a tumour, infection,injury or for no reason we can find. Because hedgehogs have shallow eye sockets and more protruding eyes, they are at more at risk of this happening. If it is clouding over, the hedgie may loose or have already lost the eyesight. Most of the time they will loose the eye when this happens but sometimes if the eye is sewn shut until it heals, the eye can be saved. It depends on the vet whether they will remove the eye and stitch it shut or leave it and put hedgie on pain meds and antibiotics. If they don't remove it, the eye will dry up and shrivel up and hedgie will dig it out leaving just a socket.
Below are examples of proptosed eye below
Swollen Eyes: Swollen eyes can indicate an allergy. If you have switched your hedgehog food recently, it may be causing allergies to your hedgie. Allergies to food usually display a "pimple" like sore on the face as well.
FEET AND LEGS
The best way to prevent any damage to a hedgehog's legs is to give your hedgehog a leg inspection.
With any leg check you should look for any obvious hairs or strings that have gotten wrapped around your hedgehog's leg. A hair or string may not be easily detected. Things to look for are discoloration of toes, as with loss of circulation they will start to turn red or purple. Also, look for lines which look like they are cutting into the leg. Often a hair will cut into the leg and the only way you will be able to see it is by the indentation it makes.
Once the string is removed, normal color should return to the limb. If the limb has started turning black, or if the string has cut deeply into the leg and the color doesn't return normal soon after removal, or you cannot get the string off, take your hedgehog to a veterinarian to be examined immediately. Your hedgehog's leg and possibly its life now depend on a veterinarian's care.
If your hedgehog is free of any strings or hairs, next you will want to ensure the legs are not discolored or swollen. Such symptoms could indicate a sprain, infection, a fracture, or even a tumor. If you discover any of these problems with your hedgehog's legs, please take your pet to a veterinarian for diagnosis and treatment.
Watch the hedgehog as it walks around, looking for changes in gait, limping, etc. An animal whose foot is starting to lose blood flow may have some numbness in its foot, hence affecting the way the animal walks.
Simple leg inspections take only seconds, and can save your hedgie from pain and yourself from any medical expenses. If tangled items are left untreated, they can lead to gangrene and will require amputation and the infection can cause death as well.
If you notice crusty bumps on the legs of the hedgehog (and usually noticed around the legs, feet and face) your hedgehog could have a staph infection. For a detailed summary, please see Staph Infection section below.
The best way to prevent any damage to a hedgehog's legs is to give your hedgehog a leg inspection.
With any leg check you should look for any obvious hairs or strings that have gotten wrapped around your hedgehog's leg. A hair or string may not be easily detected. Things to look for are discoloration of toes, as with loss of circulation they will start to turn red or purple. Also, look for lines which look like they are cutting into the leg. Often a hair will cut into the leg and the only way you will be able to see it is by the indentation it makes.
Once the string is removed, normal color should return to the limb. If the limb has started turning black, or if the string has cut deeply into the leg and the color doesn't return normal soon after removal, or you cannot get the string off, take your hedgehog to a veterinarian to be examined immediately. Your hedgehog's leg and possibly its life now depend on a veterinarian's care.
If your hedgehog is free of any strings or hairs, next you will want to ensure the legs are not discolored or swollen. Such symptoms could indicate a sprain, infection, a fracture, or even a tumor. If you discover any of these problems with your hedgehog's legs, please take your pet to a veterinarian for diagnosis and treatment.
Watch the hedgehog as it walks around, looking for changes in gait, limping, etc. An animal whose foot is starting to lose blood flow may have some numbness in its foot, hence affecting the way the animal walks.
Simple leg inspections take only seconds, and can save your hedgie from pain and yourself from any medical expenses. If tangled items are left untreated, they can lead to gangrene and will require amputation and the infection can cause death as well.
If you notice crusty bumps on the legs of the hedgehog (and usually noticed around the legs, feet and face) your hedgehog could have a staph infection. For a detailed summary, please see Staph Infection section below.
FLEAS
Fleas are usually caused by dirty conditions which provide a breeding place for fleas.
They can be indicated by small, brownish red insects walking or jumping though quills.
Most domesticated hegehogs do not encounter fleas, which are usually found in outdoor hedgehogs. They can be brought inside on your hedgehog if your hedgehog plays outside. Most usually only affect the hedgehogs so your cats and dogs, as well as yourself should be fine.
If your hedgehog encounters fleas, most commercial flea treatments should work. Make sure they are NOT long-lasting and suitable for kittens or puppies. Also avoid alcohol based sprays. Dog and cat flea powders are not recommended as they can cause respiratory problems. If a flea powder is going to be used, it should be for caged birds only.
It is always wise to test a small amount on the rump first and wait a few hours to see if an allergic reaction occurs. When applying treatment, avoid the eyes and mouth area. Clean the cage thoroughly.
Fleas are usually caused by dirty conditions which provide a breeding place for fleas.
They can be indicated by small, brownish red insects walking or jumping though quills.
Most domesticated hegehogs do not encounter fleas, which are usually found in outdoor hedgehogs. They can be brought inside on your hedgehog if your hedgehog plays outside. Most usually only affect the hedgehogs so your cats and dogs, as well as yourself should be fine.
If your hedgehog encounters fleas, most commercial flea treatments should work. Make sure they are NOT long-lasting and suitable for kittens or puppies. Also avoid alcohol based sprays. Dog and cat flea powders are not recommended as they can cause respiratory problems. If a flea powder is going to be used, it should be for caged birds only.
It is always wise to test a small amount on the rump first and wait a few hours to see if an allergic reaction occurs. When applying treatment, avoid the eyes and mouth area. Clean the cage thoroughly.
HIBERNATION
Is your hedgehog wobbly on his feet? Does he feel cold to the touch? Is he walking around like he is drunk, or wobbly and shaky?
Is he unresponsive when you go to pick him up or poke him?
If you answered yes to any of these, good chances are your hedgehog is hibernating.
Hedgehogs will also slow down and get grumpy if they are kept at a temperature that is too low for their liking. Please do not allow your hedgehog to hibernate. If he is showing any of the above signs, please feel their underside to see if they are warm. Hibernating hedgehogs will feel cold to the touch (belly will feel ice cold) and you will be able to tell that something is wrong.
If the temperature drops below 20 C (68F) your hedgehog can start preparing for hibernation, and will certainly hibernate if temperatures drop even lower. It is recommended to keep a temperature of 22C and above.
One of the most common signs is a hedgehog wobbly (walking drunk) on his feet. In 99% of all cases, this is due to hibernation.
Warm up your hedgehog immediately. It usually takes about 1/2 hr for them to come back to normal so don't panic if it does not happen within 5 minutes. They will slowly start to poke out and regain their stability. You can sometimes hear their nose sniffle when he is almost out. Do not try to warm them up by using a blow dryer or hot baths. This can shock the hedgie's system. You can put them on your body, using your body heat to warm them up. You can also put hot water in a water bottle, wrap it in a cloth and put it into the blanket of the hedgie.
Partial hibernation has showed up in some hedgehog during winter months. If your hedgehog is warm but still shows signs of hibernation, try leaving a light on to extend the hours in a day. In winter months, some hedgehogs are sensitive to the short daylight hours, and adding the additional light on for a few hours will help.
Hedgehogs who are kept as pets, do not stock up on food or put on extra body fat needed to hibernate. Hedgehogs allowed to semi hibernate extensively can suffer long term effects, becoming very weak and sick. Hedgehogs who end up in a full hibernation will rarely survive 1-2 days in this state.
Is your hedgehog wobbly on his feet? Does he feel cold to the touch? Is he walking around like he is drunk, or wobbly and shaky?
Is he unresponsive when you go to pick him up or poke him?
If you answered yes to any of these, good chances are your hedgehog is hibernating.
Hedgehogs will also slow down and get grumpy if they are kept at a temperature that is too low for their liking. Please do not allow your hedgehog to hibernate. If he is showing any of the above signs, please feel their underside to see if they are warm. Hibernating hedgehogs will feel cold to the touch (belly will feel ice cold) and you will be able to tell that something is wrong.
If the temperature drops below 20 C (68F) your hedgehog can start preparing for hibernation, and will certainly hibernate if temperatures drop even lower. It is recommended to keep a temperature of 22C and above.
One of the most common signs is a hedgehog wobbly (walking drunk) on his feet. In 99% of all cases, this is due to hibernation.
Warm up your hedgehog immediately. It usually takes about 1/2 hr for them to come back to normal so don't panic if it does not happen within 5 minutes. They will slowly start to poke out and regain their stability. You can sometimes hear their nose sniffle when he is almost out. Do not try to warm them up by using a blow dryer or hot baths. This can shock the hedgie's system. You can put them on your body, using your body heat to warm them up. You can also put hot water in a water bottle, wrap it in a cloth and put it into the blanket of the hedgie.
Partial hibernation has showed up in some hedgehog during winter months. If your hedgehog is warm but still shows signs of hibernation, try leaving a light on to extend the hours in a day. In winter months, some hedgehogs are sensitive to the short daylight hours, and adding the additional light on for a few hours will help.
Hedgehogs who are kept as pets, do not stock up on food or put on extra body fat needed to hibernate. Hedgehogs allowed to semi hibernate extensively can suffer long term effects, becoming very weak and sick. Hedgehogs who end up in a full hibernation will rarely survive 1-2 days in this state.
MITES AND QUILL LOSS
Quills can be lost for a numer of reasons.
Quilling
Young hedgehogs between 8 weeks - 6 months go through a process called "quilling". This is the time when young hedgehogs start to shed their baby quills and replace them with their adult quills. The hedgehog will loose all thin needle like quills and grow in thicker quills all throughout, making them less pokey.
These should be random (same as loosing hair for humans), and should not cause any hairless patches on your hedgehog. Quilling can take anywhere from a week to about 4 weeks and repeats itself a few times during the life cycle of a hedgehog. The most visible however the is juvenile quilling.
To help relieve discomfort, bathe your hedgehog in a warm bath containing olive or canola oil.Many people also recommend bathing the hedgehog in Aveeno oatmeal bath as well.
Cocoa butter or shea butter can also be used on dry spots. I personally use some olive oil and rub it on the hedgie to soften the skin, making them less sensitive to touch during this period.
Quills loss due to mites or ringworm:
For adult hedgehogs, quill loss is a sign of mites and/or ringworm.
Please note that almost all forms of parasites that a pet hedgehog encounters are quite treatable, and a visit to the vet will provide you with all the answers and medication you need.
One of the most common problems that pet hedgehogs suffer are from mites. Mites can originate from an infested bag of bedding, wood in their cage,another animal, dirty living conditions or picked up during outdoor play time. General symptons include quill loss, scratching, dry flaky skin,and tattered ears. Mite infestation can lead to red inflamed skin, open sores, blindness, ear infections, and death.
To help determine if mites are present, place your hedgehog on black cloth and rub their quills. Next place the cloth under a bright light, and look for white moving dots. If they're moving, you have mites!. You can also use a loose/lost quill to determine a problem. If the quill is due to a normal hedgehog shed, the quill will have a white ball at the end. If the ball piece is missing, this may be due to mites.Hedgehogs with mites usually have a "pollen like" dusty appearance to their face mask, and mites love to hide behind the ears. Mites are easily diagnosed by a vet.
If your hedgehog is scratching a lot and appears to be losing quills in a concentrated area, you need to go to the vet and have him do a skin scraping. A skin scraping is a very simple procedure that takes only about 10 mins and won't cause your hedgehog any harm or discomfort. Once a scraping is taken, your vet will look at it under a microscope to see if any mite can be found. It should be noted that the mites won't always appear in the scraping, and you may want to proceed with a preventative treatment.
Currently most breeders are treating mite outbreaks with Revolution (r) (selamectin). A single topical treatment of Revolution will last a full 30 days and will outlast the life cycle of any mite.
Revolution's dosage is 1 drop behind the ear for hedgies weighing less than 350 grams. For hedgehogs above 350grams, the dosage is 1 drop behind each ear. You can also apply it to any area where the hedgehog cannot reach (such as the top of their head).
Revolution can also be puchased online. Please make sure that the site guarantees an authentic product. (Please contact me if you have any questions). Each tube of treatment has approx 7-8 drops of treatment.
Mild flea/tick formulas for kittens/puppies also helps mild cases. Look for sprays that are not alcohol based, and contain pyrethrin (a natural insect repellant that comes from a flower)
Wash and disinfect cages,wheels,etc. if your hedgehog got mites. Remove any wood products (they are impossible to disinfect, and can harbor mites and their eggs).
Vegetable Oil baths have proven to be successful for many owners as well. Add a little oil to the water, wipe your hedgie and leave oily for a day. Wash with shampoo after a day. The process may have to be repeated a few times, but many agree this is an effective method for them. You will notice red dots (look like sand) at the botton of the sink/tub. This is the dead mites. This process needs to be repeated frequently to show effect. This is a good solution when waiting for medication to arrive if purchased online. Mites cannot hold on to the oily quills/hair and therefore mites cannot latch on to the hedgehog. This is the main idea behind this solution.
Several species of mites have been identified, including sarcoptic, demodectic, psoroptes, and chorioptes being the most common.
The saroptic mite is also knows an scabies. The life cycle of this mite is roughly 21 days. It is difficult to find in skin scrapings, and it may take several scrapings before a mite is actually seen. This mite can also affect dogs and cats and an infestation can present similar to allergic reaction (the skin reacting to an irritant).This mite can also affect owners. Please seek proper treatment from vet.
The demodectic mite is a tiny cigar shaped mite with 8 legs. These mites feed in oil glands and hair follicles. It is possible that our hedgehogs, as well as other animals, normally carry a small amount of demodectic mites on their skin. This won't manifest into a problem unless immune deficiencies are present (infection, extreme stress, etc), so be sure to have you pet checked for the underlying cause. This mite can be transmitted to humans, but it rarely causes any problems. Their life cycle is 20-35 days.
The psoroptes is a scabbing mite that is rather serious. They do not burrow as other mites do, instead they seek shelter and reproduce under a scab. The life cycle of this mite is 9 days, however they are known to reproduce vigerously. They is more often seen in live stock, then household pets.
The chorioptes mite is an oval shaped gray/ white surface mite. This mite may be transmitted from host to host, or through bedding. An infestation may characterized by rough patchy skin with scabbing around the edges.
Quills can be lost for a numer of reasons.
Quilling
Young hedgehogs between 8 weeks - 6 months go through a process called "quilling". This is the time when young hedgehogs start to shed their baby quills and replace them with their adult quills. The hedgehog will loose all thin needle like quills and grow in thicker quills all throughout, making them less pokey.
These should be random (same as loosing hair for humans), and should not cause any hairless patches on your hedgehog. Quilling can take anywhere from a week to about 4 weeks and repeats itself a few times during the life cycle of a hedgehog. The most visible however the is juvenile quilling.
To help relieve discomfort, bathe your hedgehog in a warm bath containing olive or canola oil.Many people also recommend bathing the hedgehog in Aveeno oatmeal bath as well.
Cocoa butter or shea butter can also be used on dry spots. I personally use some olive oil and rub it on the hedgie to soften the skin, making them less sensitive to touch during this period.
Quills loss due to mites or ringworm:
For adult hedgehogs, quill loss is a sign of mites and/or ringworm.
Please note that almost all forms of parasites that a pet hedgehog encounters are quite treatable, and a visit to the vet will provide you with all the answers and medication you need.
One of the most common problems that pet hedgehogs suffer are from mites. Mites can originate from an infested bag of bedding, wood in their cage,another animal, dirty living conditions or picked up during outdoor play time. General symptons include quill loss, scratching, dry flaky skin,and tattered ears. Mite infestation can lead to red inflamed skin, open sores, blindness, ear infections, and death.
To help determine if mites are present, place your hedgehog on black cloth and rub their quills. Next place the cloth under a bright light, and look for white moving dots. If they're moving, you have mites!. You can also use a loose/lost quill to determine a problem. If the quill is due to a normal hedgehog shed, the quill will have a white ball at the end. If the ball piece is missing, this may be due to mites.Hedgehogs with mites usually have a "pollen like" dusty appearance to their face mask, and mites love to hide behind the ears. Mites are easily diagnosed by a vet.
If your hedgehog is scratching a lot and appears to be losing quills in a concentrated area, you need to go to the vet and have him do a skin scraping. A skin scraping is a very simple procedure that takes only about 10 mins and won't cause your hedgehog any harm or discomfort. Once a scraping is taken, your vet will look at it under a microscope to see if any mite can be found. It should be noted that the mites won't always appear in the scraping, and you may want to proceed with a preventative treatment.
Currently most breeders are treating mite outbreaks with Revolution (r) (selamectin). A single topical treatment of Revolution will last a full 30 days and will outlast the life cycle of any mite.
Revolution's dosage is 1 drop behind the ear for hedgies weighing less than 350 grams. For hedgehogs above 350grams, the dosage is 1 drop behind each ear. You can also apply it to any area where the hedgehog cannot reach (such as the top of their head).
Revolution can also be puchased online. Please make sure that the site guarantees an authentic product. (Please contact me if you have any questions). Each tube of treatment has approx 7-8 drops of treatment.
Mild flea/tick formulas for kittens/puppies also helps mild cases. Look for sprays that are not alcohol based, and contain pyrethrin (a natural insect repellant that comes from a flower)
Wash and disinfect cages,wheels,etc. if your hedgehog got mites. Remove any wood products (they are impossible to disinfect, and can harbor mites and their eggs).
Vegetable Oil baths have proven to be successful for many owners as well. Add a little oil to the water, wipe your hedgie and leave oily for a day. Wash with shampoo after a day. The process may have to be repeated a few times, but many agree this is an effective method for them. You will notice red dots (look like sand) at the botton of the sink/tub. This is the dead mites. This process needs to be repeated frequently to show effect. This is a good solution when waiting for medication to arrive if purchased online. Mites cannot hold on to the oily quills/hair and therefore mites cannot latch on to the hedgehog. This is the main idea behind this solution.
Several species of mites have been identified, including sarcoptic, demodectic, psoroptes, and chorioptes being the most common.
The saroptic mite is also knows an scabies. The life cycle of this mite is roughly 21 days. It is difficult to find in skin scrapings, and it may take several scrapings before a mite is actually seen. This mite can also affect dogs and cats and an infestation can present similar to allergic reaction (the skin reacting to an irritant).This mite can also affect owners. Please seek proper treatment from vet.
The demodectic mite is a tiny cigar shaped mite with 8 legs. These mites feed in oil glands and hair follicles. It is possible that our hedgehogs, as well as other animals, normally carry a small amount of demodectic mites on their skin. This won't manifest into a problem unless immune deficiencies are present (infection, extreme stress, etc), so be sure to have you pet checked for the underlying cause. This mite can be transmitted to humans, but it rarely causes any problems. Their life cycle is 20-35 days.
The psoroptes is a scabbing mite that is rather serious. They do not burrow as other mites do, instead they seek shelter and reproduce under a scab. The life cycle of this mite is 9 days, however they are known to reproduce vigerously. They is more often seen in live stock, then household pets.
The chorioptes mite is an oval shaped gray/ white surface mite. This mite may be transmitted from host to host, or through bedding. An infestation may characterized by rough patchy skin with scabbing around the edges.
NOSE
Usually the nose doesn't suffer much in the way of problems, but it can show up in other problems, especially respiratory troubles, such a pneumonia.
Signs for watch for include bubbles coming from the nose (upper respiratory problem), excessive dripping or constant sneezing as well as irregular raspy breath.
A single sneeze after a yawn is common for hedgehogs (see video below) but anything repeated frequently should be looked after.
This video shows what is common behaviour for a pet hedgehog as he is romaing around very well. All the sounds he is making are normal. Some hedgehogs are louder than others.
Pneumonia rarely happens on its own. It usually appears following some sort of injury, or other medical problem, or due to extended or repeated attempts of partial hibernation. In most cases it is bacterial in nature and responds well to antibiotics.
If these symptoms occur, please take your hedgie to the vet. The quicker you act, the better it is and the antibiotics have a better positive effect.
Usually the nose doesn't suffer much in the way of problems, but it can show up in other problems, especially respiratory troubles, such a pneumonia.
Signs for watch for include bubbles coming from the nose (upper respiratory problem), excessive dripping or constant sneezing as well as irregular raspy breath.
A single sneeze after a yawn is common for hedgehogs (see video below) but anything repeated frequently should be looked after.
This video shows what is common behaviour for a pet hedgehog as he is romaing around very well. All the sounds he is making are normal. Some hedgehogs are louder than others.
Pneumonia rarely happens on its own. It usually appears following some sort of injury, or other medical problem, or due to extended or repeated attempts of partial hibernation. In most cases it is bacterial in nature and responds well to antibiotics.
If these symptoms occur, please take your hedgie to the vet. The quicker you act, the better it is and the antibiotics have a better positive effect.
OVERWEIGHT / OBESITY
Obesity can be indicated by yellowing of the armpits. If left untreated, it can lead to a serious disease called Fatty Liver Disease and possibly cause death if untreated. Increase excercise level through more playime. Add a wheel if currently not available. Switch to appropriate hedgehog food, and reduce calorie intake if applicable.
Fatty Liver Disease
Hedgehogs are sometimes inclined to getting Fatty Liver Disease (FLD). While all reasons are not understood, there have been some suggestions that it can be due to the type of diet, in some cases the quantity, lack of exercise. One of the best ways to prevent FLD is to provide a wheel or other regular excercise. Also when selecting food for your hedgehog, check the back label for nutrition. Try to pick food with high protein content and lowest fat contact. The best value product in this case is the Royal Canin Indoor Light 40.
Obesity can be indicated by yellowing of the armpits. If left untreated, it can lead to a serious disease called Fatty Liver Disease and possibly cause death if untreated. Increase excercise level through more playime. Add a wheel if currently not available. Switch to appropriate hedgehog food, and reduce calorie intake if applicable.
Fatty Liver Disease
Hedgehogs are sometimes inclined to getting Fatty Liver Disease (FLD). While all reasons are not understood, there have been some suggestions that it can be due to the type of diet, in some cases the quantity, lack of exercise. One of the best ways to prevent FLD is to provide a wheel or other regular excercise. Also when selecting food for your hedgehog, check the back label for nutrition. Try to pick food with high protein content and lowest fat contact. The best value product in this case is the Royal Canin Indoor Light 40.
POOP & URINE
DIARRHEA
When hedgehogs get diarrhea, their feces become jellified, very loose, greenish, putty coloured or sometimes dark with streaks of blood.
If your hedgie gets diarrhea, keep them warm. Provide them with a light diet, scrambled eggs or chicken. If diarrhea continues for more than a few bathroom visits after the diet has been corrected, it may be a sign of infection or worms. If diarrhea is due to diet change or anitbiotics, feed your hedgie some low-fat vanilla yogurt.
GREEN POOP
Green poop is a possible cause of stress, illness, infection, reponse to some medications, especially antibiotics.
If you just purchased your hedgehog, he may have green poop due to the changing of surrounding. A new home, the car ride there, can easily cause green poop. This should pass quickly. We always provide a bag of food with each sold hedgie to prevent this as much as we can. Many times green poop will also occur when there is a change in their diet.
CONSTIPATION
If your hedgehog seems to be constipated,try putting them in a couple inches of warm water. This usually stimulates a bowel movement ever time.
Feeding a little unseasoned canned pumpkin also works well for constipation.
If the problem continues, please see a vet.
BLOOD IN URINE OR FECES
Blood spots in either urine or feces canbe from an incredibly wide range of causes. It can be a one-time thing (such as constipation), or it can be serious. Any time it happend repeatedly, it requires a visit to the vet ASAP. Im most cases it will originate from bladder infections or similar causes. Most respond very well to treatment with antibiotics.
FOR FEMALES: If you notice blood spots in the litter, and they increase rapidly in the next few days, your female hedgehog may have cancerous growth in the uterus. Many will continue their normal routines (other than the blood). Most vets will remove the growth and the hedgehog will be happy and healthy once again, but you must visit your vet as soon as you can when the symptoms begin. Delaying in finding and fixing the cause can lead to situation becoming beyond control.
DIARRHEA
When hedgehogs get diarrhea, their feces become jellified, very loose, greenish, putty coloured or sometimes dark with streaks of blood.
If your hedgie gets diarrhea, keep them warm. Provide them with a light diet, scrambled eggs or chicken. If diarrhea continues for more than a few bathroom visits after the diet has been corrected, it may be a sign of infection or worms. If diarrhea is due to diet change or anitbiotics, feed your hedgie some low-fat vanilla yogurt.
GREEN POOP
Green poop is a possible cause of stress, illness, infection, reponse to some medications, especially antibiotics.
If you just purchased your hedgehog, he may have green poop due to the changing of surrounding. A new home, the car ride there, can easily cause green poop. This should pass quickly. We always provide a bag of food with each sold hedgie to prevent this as much as we can. Many times green poop will also occur when there is a change in their diet.
CONSTIPATION
If your hedgehog seems to be constipated,try putting them in a couple inches of warm water. This usually stimulates a bowel movement ever time.
Feeding a little unseasoned canned pumpkin also works well for constipation.
If the problem continues, please see a vet.
BLOOD IN URINE OR FECES
Blood spots in either urine or feces canbe from an incredibly wide range of causes. It can be a one-time thing (such as constipation), or it can be serious. Any time it happend repeatedly, it requires a visit to the vet ASAP. Im most cases it will originate from bladder infections or similar causes. Most respond very well to treatment with antibiotics.
FOR FEMALES: If you notice blood spots in the litter, and they increase rapidly in the next few days, your female hedgehog may have cancerous growth in the uterus. Many will continue their normal routines (other than the blood). Most vets will remove the growth and the hedgehog will be happy and healthy once again, but you must visit your vet as soon as you can when the symptoms begin. Delaying in finding and fixing the cause can lead to situation becoming beyond control.
RINGWORM
Many hedgehogs who encounter mites may develop Ringworm. If yor hedgehog had mites, he should be treated for ringworm as well.
Treatment is as follows:
To start with it is important to gently soften the scabs so that the underlying infection is exposed,using Almond oil to soften it Brush off loose skin and spines with a soft toothbrush but brush in the direction of the spines not against them. Most hedgehogs find this quite soothing and it relaxes them and enables treatment to be carried out very easily.The standard treatment is to then bathe in IMAVEROL solution every 3 or 4 days, for 4 baths. Along with the baths we using one of the over-the-counter Anti-Fungals from the local Pharmacy in conjunction with the baths works very well.
Do not use oral antifungal treatments like Grisovin as that causes quite severe liver problems in hedgehogs, stays in the system for an extremely long time and is passed on to babies causing congenital deformities
Some safe treatment creams are:
All of these creams are sold for various fungal infections and are usually found in the section of the pharmacy dealing with athletes foot, which is a similar form of fungal infection. (Other brands with the same chemical content may be available in your area so ask the pharmacist)
These cream should be used very sparingly once or twice daily on obvious patches of ringworm, normally on the nose, ears or legs, and the underside where the spines meet the stomach (where scabs frequently form).
Using one of the anti-fungal creams on the face and ears s better for the hog than trying to wash it with Imaverol.
Be very careful not to get the cream into the eyes or deep into the ears. This also applies to the Imaverol when bathing your hedgehog.
Almost all hogs with severe mite infestation will have ringworm. It is always wise to treat for both.
You will frequently find that almost all the spines will be lost during treatment, but they do grow back faily quickly (2-3 months normally) and the hedgehog will need to be kept in a secure safe place away from predators while the spines re-grow.
It is vital to also give a very nourishing high protein/fat diet with added vitamins to help build up the hedgehog as ringworm really debilitates the hedgehog. Ask your vet for an injection of Vitamin B12 (Vitbee250) to give 0.2 to 0.3ml per kg bodyweight once a week for 3 weeks.
Many hedgehogs who encounter mites may develop Ringworm. If yor hedgehog had mites, he should be treated for ringworm as well.
Treatment is as follows:
To start with it is important to gently soften the scabs so that the underlying infection is exposed,using Almond oil to soften it Brush off loose skin and spines with a soft toothbrush but brush in the direction of the spines not against them. Most hedgehogs find this quite soothing and it relaxes them and enables treatment to be carried out very easily.The standard treatment is to then bathe in IMAVEROL solution every 3 or 4 days, for 4 baths. Along with the baths we using one of the over-the-counter Anti-Fungals from the local Pharmacy in conjunction with the baths works very well.
Do not use oral antifungal treatments like Grisovin as that causes quite severe liver problems in hedgehogs, stays in the system for an extremely long time and is passed on to babies causing congenital deformities
Some safe treatment creams are:
- CANESTEAN 2% (CLOTRIMAZOLE) CREAM
- TINADERM (TOLNAFTATE) CREAM
- DAKTARIN (MICONAZOLE) CREAM
- SUROLAN OINTMENT (be very careful as this contains a steroid and thins the skin. Only use on thick crusts and only a couple of times until they have softened) This prescription only from a vet
All of these creams are sold for various fungal infections and are usually found in the section of the pharmacy dealing with athletes foot, which is a similar form of fungal infection. (Other brands with the same chemical content may be available in your area so ask the pharmacist)
These cream should be used very sparingly once or twice daily on obvious patches of ringworm, normally on the nose, ears or legs, and the underside where the spines meet the stomach (where scabs frequently form).
Using one of the anti-fungal creams on the face and ears s better for the hog than trying to wash it with Imaverol.
Be very careful not to get the cream into the eyes or deep into the ears. This also applies to the Imaverol when bathing your hedgehog.
Almost all hogs with severe mite infestation will have ringworm. It is always wise to treat for both.
You will frequently find that almost all the spines will be lost during treatment, but they do grow back faily quickly (2-3 months normally) and the hedgehog will need to be kept in a secure safe place away from predators while the spines re-grow.
It is vital to also give a very nourishing high protein/fat diet with added vitamins to help build up the hedgehog as ringworm really debilitates the hedgehog. Ask your vet for an injection of Vitamin B12 (Vitbee250) to give 0.2 to 0.3ml per kg bodyweight once a week for 3 weeks.
STAPH INFECTIONS
Staph infections, depending on type, can be curable if caught early. They are a bacterial infection that can occur when the immune system is compromised. Since the skin is the body's largest organ and one of its first defense, conditions compromising the skin compromise the immune system. A vet will have to treat a staph infection. It is not contagious to us since we already have the bacteria on our skin and our bodies can usually fight it off.
Staph infections often present as crusty looking bumps on the skin, frequently focusing on the legs, feet, and face. A vet visit is necessary to determine the exact cause of these wounds, and to find the appropriate treatment for them.
Bacterial Folliculitis is an inflammation of the hair follicles that may be or lead to infection.
Staph infections, depending on type, can be curable if caught early. They are a bacterial infection that can occur when the immune system is compromised. Since the skin is the body's largest organ and one of its first defense, conditions compromising the skin compromise the immune system. A vet will have to treat a staph infection. It is not contagious to us since we already have the bacteria on our skin and our bodies can usually fight it off.
Staph infections often present as crusty looking bumps on the skin, frequently focusing on the legs, feet, and face. A vet visit is necessary to determine the exact cause of these wounds, and to find the appropriate treatment for them.
Bacterial Folliculitis is an inflammation of the hair follicles that may be or lead to infection.
WHS = WOBBLY HEDGEHOG SYNDROME
In short, WHS (wobbly hedgehog syndrome)is a progressive, degenerative, neurological disease, the cause of which is still uncertain. There are no known cures, but there are treatments and supportive care you can give that may extend their life and certainly add quality to it. This disease acts much like Multiple Sclerosis does in humans, and may have a rapid onset, though more often the onset is gradual. The hind legs are often affected first, and then the paralysis spreads to the front legs and other parts of the body. Sometimes the paralysis affects one side of the body, and your hedgehog will begin tipping over and unable to stay upright. A series of case studies was done and they revealed that the onset of symptoms in most cases occurs between the ages of 18 and 24 months, although this disease has also been known to strike both younger and older hedgehogs. Hedgehogs with WHS will often experience weight loss, due in part to their inability to get to their food dishes (much can be done to help this) and in the advance stages of this disease, they become completely immobilized. In the cases that were studied, death occurred between 6 weeks and 19 months after the onset of symptoms.
Due to the eventual immobility of WHS hedgies, they will not be able to get to, or stand at their food dishes. As long as your hedgehog can still eat regular foods, you can easily prop him up to eat and drink by rolling a couple of hand towels and situating him in the center. Use shallow dishes to allow further ease of accessing the food and water. **Keeping a close record of your hedgehogs weight is crucial. You'll want to make sure there are no drastic gains or loses.
Daily massaging is "very" important. Like any person with is partially paralyzed, they still need their muscles moved. A body that doesn't move loses muscle tone and the internal organs will cease to function well, which in turn can bring on a whole other set of health problems. You can massage your hedgie by laying him on his back in your lap and rubbing your fingers in a clockwise circular motion on the abdomen (NEVER MASSAGE THE ABDOMEN COUNTER-CLOCKWISE). This will help the digestive system and keep things moving well. Take the legs and feet, messaging each one and then moving them in a simulated walking motion, then turn him on his belly and gently message the back, beginning at the top of his head and working your way down to his tail in small circular motions. Many hedgies love their faces rubbed as well.
There sometimes comes a point that the hedgehog could no longer eat solid foods and it became obvious that the best way to get the food into him would be via a syringe. Its a very easy procedure; simply puree most of the foods he normally eats.
Presently, there is no known cure for WHS, however, with careful supervision and supportive care, you can give your beloved pet a much longer life, and one with quality, which after all, is the most important factor of all.
Here are some videos of hedgehogs with Wobbly Hedgehog Syndrome
In short, WHS (wobbly hedgehog syndrome)is a progressive, degenerative, neurological disease, the cause of which is still uncertain. There are no known cures, but there are treatments and supportive care you can give that may extend their life and certainly add quality to it. This disease acts much like Multiple Sclerosis does in humans, and may have a rapid onset, though more often the onset is gradual. The hind legs are often affected first, and then the paralysis spreads to the front legs and other parts of the body. Sometimes the paralysis affects one side of the body, and your hedgehog will begin tipping over and unable to stay upright. A series of case studies was done and they revealed that the onset of symptoms in most cases occurs between the ages of 18 and 24 months, although this disease has also been known to strike both younger and older hedgehogs. Hedgehogs with WHS will often experience weight loss, due in part to their inability to get to their food dishes (much can be done to help this) and in the advance stages of this disease, they become completely immobilized. In the cases that were studied, death occurred between 6 weeks and 19 months after the onset of symptoms.
Due to the eventual immobility of WHS hedgies, they will not be able to get to, or stand at their food dishes. As long as your hedgehog can still eat regular foods, you can easily prop him up to eat and drink by rolling a couple of hand towels and situating him in the center. Use shallow dishes to allow further ease of accessing the food and water. **Keeping a close record of your hedgehogs weight is crucial. You'll want to make sure there are no drastic gains or loses.
Daily massaging is "very" important. Like any person with is partially paralyzed, they still need their muscles moved. A body that doesn't move loses muscle tone and the internal organs will cease to function well, which in turn can bring on a whole other set of health problems. You can massage your hedgie by laying him on his back in your lap and rubbing your fingers in a clockwise circular motion on the abdomen (NEVER MASSAGE THE ABDOMEN COUNTER-CLOCKWISE). This will help the digestive system and keep things moving well. Take the legs and feet, messaging each one and then moving them in a simulated walking motion, then turn him on his belly and gently message the back, beginning at the top of his head and working your way down to his tail in small circular motions. Many hedgies love their faces rubbed as well.
There sometimes comes a point that the hedgehog could no longer eat solid foods and it became obvious that the best way to get the food into him would be via a syringe. Its a very easy procedure; simply puree most of the foods he normally eats.
Presently, there is no known cure for WHS, however, with careful supervision and supportive care, you can give your beloved pet a much longer life, and one with quality, which after all, is the most important factor of all.
Here are some videos of hedgehogs with Wobbly Hedgehog Syndrome
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Here is some pics to show what you can do to help your hedgehog with WHS more comfortable and aid in his movements as they decline in mobility